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Joined 3 months ago
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Cake day: September 29th, 2025

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  • Man I’ve been thinking about building a dear22 too. I built a m&p 15.22 not realizing that it wasn’t well suited for a super safety or a frt. I’ve been holding off because of the amount of unfinished projects I have. It’s definitely on my list. Can’t wait to see yours. Right now I’m waiting on a Kimber micro 9 parts kit to build out a tiny 11. Should be here any day 👍🏻




  • MashedleoOPtoGeneral Discussionwraith hand guard
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    5 days ago

    It’s got a rough texture for sure. Not all pa6-cf has a rough texture though. I’ve been using Jayo pa6-cf and it’s much smoother. Also yxpolyer pa6-cf has the smoothest I’ve seen but it can be a pain to use sometimes. I think it has to do with the size of the carbon fill. I’m pretty sure those 2 cheaper brands use more of a carbon fiber powder where like Fiberon has strands of carbon fiber. I’m sure it affects overall strength too. However the builds Ive used the cheap stuff on are holding up just fine. The cheaper ones tend to warp easier too. Printing and annealing.















  • MashedleotoGeneral DiscussionRIP FOSSCADTOO
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    7 days ago

    Oh that was you on the old fosscad that were working on it. I’m bad at remembering names but I was following your progress. Yeah I’m thinking a cmmg .22 build will be in my future. Thanks for the detailed response.



  • MashedleotoHelp & Supportannealing PA612CF
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    8 days ago

    Wow, 16 hours? I suppose on a lower that might makes sense. I typically do 10 to 12 on a pistol frame. The biggest thing is not allowing it to heat or cool too quickly. I have a 1/2" thick pan in my air fryer that keeps the lower element from heating it from the bottom too quickly. I also start at 70c and go up 10c every 30 minutes until I’m at 100c. Those are just things I’ve tried that work and keep my parts from warping. Also good to moisture condition somewhat before assembly. Your part will be at its most brittle state right after annealing.