Only thing I would change is your Top Z distance on your support settings to 0.265. Perfect setting for supports. Gives it a good interface layer and easy removal after printing.
I never understood why people use such high z distance. The bottom looks like spaghetti like you printed with no supports. I use .16 and supports come off easily if you change settings to decrease layer adhesion ONLY for support interface. Most of 300’s settings are different from what I use.
.265 is the number I also landed on after testing a number of different support distances. It’s enough to create easy separation of supports but not have a spaghetti monster on the underside of the print. For most, changing this setting is easier than what you described below. I was printing a Plasticatto in Elegoo PAHT and had major issues removing supports at .16 so I did some testing and landed at the .265. Happens to work well with other PAs as well as PPA—CF and GF. Just my experience though
Speed and cooling are basic settings. If that is not easy enough, I don’t think they should be printing. I’m not sure what other settings you also changed but anything above .24 is spaghetti on default settings. PA is even easier to remove as it’s so brittle when dry.
Part of this is also personal preference in difficulty. I’m sure yours is super easy to remove. But I’d just prefer a cleaner surface even if it requires some bits that stick on and need to be removed.
It’s simple really. Most say hot and slow for layer adhesion right? And with nylon, no fan. Well you want bad layer adhesion so you do the opposite. Turn fan on and speed up. Temp can’t be changed for interface separately but those are enough to weaken it so it snaps off easy.
I’m on bambu and used others but it doesn’t change no matter what printer it is. I’m sure you’re fine with it otherwise you would change it but I’m just saying you could increase quality immensely without sacrificing ease of support removal.
You’ve probably delved deeper in settings than me considering .265. Most of my settings are default.
Yes just search 300blkfde and the .3mf file contains all the pre set settings! Just add your part on the plate and change nothing!
Thanks, ill check it out!
Only thing I would change is your Top Z distance on your support settings to 0.265. Perfect setting for supports. Gives it a good interface layer and easy removal after printing.
I never understood why people use such high z distance. The bottom looks like spaghetti like you printed with no supports. I use .16 and supports come off easily if you change settings to decrease layer adhesion ONLY for support interface. Most of 300’s settings are different from what I use.
.265 is the number I also landed on after testing a number of different support distances. It’s enough to create easy separation of supports but not have a spaghetti monster on the underside of the print. For most, changing this setting is easier than what you described below. I was printing a Plasticatto in Elegoo PAHT and had major issues removing supports at .16 so I did some testing and landed at the .265. Happens to work well with other PAs as well as PPA—CF and GF. Just my experience though
Speed and cooling are basic settings. If that is not easy enough, I don’t think they should be printing. I’m not sure what other settings you also changed but anything above .24 is spaghetti on default settings. PA is even easier to remove as it’s so brittle when dry.
Part of this is also personal preference in difficulty. I’m sure yours is super easy to remove. But I’d just prefer a cleaner surface even if it requires some bits that stick on and need to be removed.
Mind elaborating on this a bit? Always interested in learning
It’s simple really. Most say hot and slow for layer adhesion right? And with nylon, no fan. Well you want bad layer adhesion so you do the opposite. Turn fan on and speed up. Temp can’t be changed for interface separately but those are enough to weaken it so it snaps off easy.
It’s worked well for my prints so far. I’m a bambu user so I’m probably spoiled in that I havent had to delve too deep into many of the settings.
I’m on bambu and used others but it doesn’t change no matter what printer it is. I’m sure you’re fine with it otherwise you would change it but I’m just saying you could increase quality immensely without sacrificing ease of support removal.
You’ve probably delved deeper in settings than me considering .265. Most of my settings are default.
Yea we started with a Creality Ender V3SE when I bought the P1S we were in shock and awe… everything just prints! No real tuning required!
Gonna try this on the rest of the parts once the new spool arrives!